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In April 2012 Mark Horrell travelled to Tibet hoping to become, if not the first person to climb Mount Everest, at least the first Karl Pilkington lookalike to do so.
He joined a mountaineering expedition which included an Australian sexagenarian, two Brits whose idea of hydration meant a box of red wine, and a New Zealander who enjoyed reminding his teammates of the perils of altitude sickness and the number of ways they might die on summit day.
The media often write about Mount Everest deaths and how easy the world's highest mountain has become to climb, but how accurately does this reflect reality?
The Chomolungma Diaries is a true story of ordinary people climbing Mount Everest with a commercial expedition, and preparing for the biggest day of their lives.
Imagine your life clipped into a narrow line of cord five miles above the earth, on the world's most terrifying ridge walk. This book will bring you just a little bit closer to that experience.
About this series
The Footsteps on the Mountain Travel Diaries are Mark's expedition journals. Quick reads, they are lightly edited versions of what he scribbles in his tent each evening after a day in the mountains.
Mark's first full-length book, Seven Steps from Snowdon to Everest, about his journey to becoming an Everest climber, was published in November 2015.
- Sales Rank: #522463 in eBooks
- Published on: 2012-11-17
- Released on: 2012-11-17
- Format: Kindle eBook
About the Author
For five years Mark Horrell has written what has been described as one of the most credible Everest opinion blogs out there. He writes about trekking and mountaineering from the often silent perspective of the commercial client.
For over a decade he has been exploring the world's greater mountain ranges and keeping a diary of his travels. As a writer he strives to do for mountain history what Bill Bryson did for long-distance hiking.
Several of his expedition diaries are available as quick reads from the major online bookstores. His first full-length book, Seven Steps from Snowdon to Everest, about his ten-year journey from hill walker to Everest climber, was published in November 2015.
His favourite mountaineering book is The Ascent of Rum Doodle by W.E. Bowman.
Most helpful customer reviews
8 of 9 people found the following review helpful.
Fascinating and troubling read
By VG
Longer than most of Horrell's other mountaineering diaries, this book has about four dozen chapters (or diary entries), but in fact, you could say that it has three main parts:
Part One, which I'd call Happy Hour: Up to the 60% mark on Kindle, it's happy hour for Horrell and his mates. Really, up to the 60% mark, it seems the difference between climbing Everest and smaller mountains is there's an extra month thrown in for acclimatisation (or, in plain English, Happy Hour!) There must be 30 pages devoted to happy hour in this section. It's really quite humorous - the amount of time spent swilling is easily triple the time spent climbing. There's even some happy hour drama. It's all in good fun, this first 60%, and there are some fine passages about acclimatisation, getting to the North Col, and about misery at Advanced Base Camp, but man, Happy Hour. Until the 60 % mark of the book, I'd say happy hour and drinking are the most prominent aspects.
Part Two, which I'd label The trek to the summit: After the 60% mark, the second story starts, and it's far more serious. No more booze. No more jokes. The tone changes completely. Base camps are left behind and the exhausting climb to the summit begins. This is tense stuff and gripping. Horrell becomes just another scared guy who's trying to get there, but above all, get back. In most other travel diaries that I've read, he's been well within himself and summited with ease, or given up because of weather, not because of his limits. But here, he's severely tested even though conditions are excellent, the crowds are not too bad, and he essentially has a private Sherpa to help him out. Nonetheless, above 8300, on the summit push, he's not the cocky guy he was down below during happy hour, not by a long shot. In fact he seems out of his element entirely. He's pretty close to being the slowest person on the mountain that day, getting back to Camp 3 almost 18 exhausting hours after he left it! Already shaky and unable to eat by the day of the push, he has trouble with his gear, his oxygen, his goggles, everything. Really, he's a wreck. At several points on the way down, he even experiences dangerous micro-sleeps. It was tense stuff.
Part Three, in which we learn of other people on the mountain that day who had it worse: The last 5% of the book is frankly depressing and troubling. By the time Horrell gets back to Base Camp 3, he's a wreck: severely dehydrated, physically exhausted, mentally trashed, not even remotely pleased with his day, his body and mind locked in survivor mode. But chillingly, on his way down that day, he runs into two other climbers from other teams, one still going up(!), the other coming down, both of whom are essentially as bad off as he is. We learn on the final page that the book is dedicated to one of these two people. Enough said. Very depressing stuff.
Horrell writes in the final pages that he hopes he's managed to dispel some of the misconceptions people have about expeditions to Everest - that they're not all just fat wealthy jerks carried to the top by Sherpas so they can tick off another item on the old bucket list. In some ways, he succeeds; in other ways, not so much. His expedition has ordinary guys and women who train (and drink) hard, and who save up to be able to have some extraordinary experiences. And yet, there still seems to be something terribly wrong with these expeditions to me. During the weeks-long acclimatisation period, while the expedition members do a little climbing and a lot of drinking, the Sherpas are almost non-stop trudging up and down the mountain, making caches, installing lines, and just generally getting the mountain ready all the way up to 8300 so that the majority of expedition members can have a chance at the summit and get back safely. Horrell doesn't deny any of this. He freely admits that without the Sherpas, he's nobody, and he's never getting to the top without them. But it doesn't bother him. I'm ambivalent. I realize that it's difficult or impossible for people who like climbing and who are serious about it to spend months at Everest hauling all their own stuff up from camp to camp, and doing all the dirty work on their own. But I'd be a lot more impressed if the mountaineers and the Sherpas at least did approximately equal work as partners. Take an extra month (or more), with the attendant costs and time off work, and help schlep your oxygen, your tents, your lines, your food, your kitchen stuff up to ABC and beyond. It would reduce the numbers by half, and the extra time at altitude doing Sherpa-style work (very slowly, admittedly) would improve the mountaineers' abilities and fitness and maybe result in fewer fatalities.
Perhaps I'm being totally unrealistic, but frankly, I find Horrell's experiences in Denali Nights to be much closer to what I would consider real mountaineering.
But I'm out of my element at this point. I've only ever done a tiny amount of climbing, and only actually had porters once. I've never even been above 5000. But there you go. Four stars.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Great Everest expedition narrative
By Dion Hinchcliffe
While you won't find excessive drama or death on the mountains up close in Mark's book, it's certainly the best blow-by-blow of a modern climb of Everest by a real climber you'll find for the price. Personally, I found the details of both the climb logistics itself as well as the interpersonal stories of the team members to be a greatly entertaining and informative. Plenty of dry humor, human interest, and climbing lore for those that relish the details of what it's really like. In short, those looking for a sensational Everest climbing account won't find it here. Instead, those looking for an interesting page turner that's actually worth some study for what it tells you about the real experience and mechanics high altitude climbing will be rewarded.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Good Writing, Easy Reading
By Chan Joon Yee
Mark Horrell writes a very readable account of his successful climb of Mt Everest in 2012. Their teams starts off in Kathmandu and makes the overland journey to Tibet to climb the mountain from the north. From the start, the reader may be misled into thinking that this is some parody of sorts. Horrell is funny and is able to derive humour out of every unpleasant situation in the mountains. However, he soon gets serious with his day to day, blow by blow account of the events. Still, I can't help wondering how much beer their team actually brought to Base Camp.
Horrell goes in great detail describing their long and tedious acclimatisation climbs. To his credit, he does so without boring the reader. When the narrow window is found and the team gets ready for the summit push, Horrell seems to forget how to be funny and details his difficult and dangerous struggle up the North Col, First Step, Second Step, Summit Ridge etc.
The action doesn't end there. Unlike most books in this genre that merely skims over the descent, Horrells recounts the many dangerous moments he had while trying to get off the mountain alive, under the watchful eye of his personal Sherpa Changba who has climbed the mountain 12 times.
There are quite a number of dead bodies the author encountered on his climb. The one that bugs him most is an irrational climber he ran into on his descent. Horrell dedicates this him. Ridden with guilt, he wonders if that climber could have survived if he had advised him to turn around.
Overall, it is a highly readable book. However, I skipped chunks at the end as the author described how totally drained and humourless he was when he reached Base Camp.
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